On 21 November, Venice does something no other city in the world does. A temporary pontoon bridge spans the Grand Canal, and thousands of Venetians cross over to light candles in the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute — a pilgrimage that has been held uninterrupted since 1631. The Festa della Salute is one of Europe’s oldest living traditions, and entry is completely free.
Free entry — the pilgrimage, pontoon bridge and basilica visit are completely free.
How it started
In 1630, the bubonic plague devastated Venice. In eighteen months, nearly fifty thousand people died — more than a third of the city’s population. The Senate of the Republic of Venice made a vow: if the plague ended, a church would be built in honour of the Madonna. The plague ended in 1631. Baldassare Longhena won the commission and designed the impressive domed basilica that has defined Venice’s skyline ever since.
What to expect
The day begins early as workers finish the temporary pontoon bridge across the Grand Canal. Venetians of all ages cross the bridge and light candles in the basilica. Around the church, stalls sell castradina — a traditional salted mutton eaten only on this day. The atmosphere is intimate, atmospheric and genuine: this is not a tourist event but a living tradition of the city itself.
Practical info
- Date: annually on 21 November
- Location: Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, Dorsoduro, Venice
- Entry: completely free
- Getting there: vaporetto line 1 or 2 to Salute
- Tip: come early morning — the atmosphere on the bridge is most beautiful as the candles are just being lit